First transgender designer at New York Fashion Week

Roisin Maguire

The debut of designer Pierre Davis and her brand made fashion week history.

Pierre Davis made her debut last week as the first transgender woman to present at Fashion Week in New York. Davis founded her brand ‘No Sesso’ in 2015 which translates from Italian into ‘No Sex’. Now, Davis is making great strides towards inclusivity and representation.

Her collection is being revered, with The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) said she is “making NYFW history”.The CFDA represents more than 500 creators in the industry and is a not for profit trade association. Davis said to the CFDA that her hopes are that No Sesso “will inspire people to be more community-minded and to realise not everything is just about aesthetics or commerce”.

Davis mentioned that she hopes her designs will be judged on their own merits, and not on her identity or the identity of the brand. She believes in fair competition and is delighted to be able to feature her work in NYFW.

She also said that her brand is about humanity, being a voice for those who cannot speak up for who they are. The brand, which is agender, shows its collections in chapters rather than collections. The show featured a mix of sporty and formal wear. Davis described it as business wear with a hint of glamour regardless of the gender.

She added that it’s important ‘that people of all intersectional identities are given a fighting chance regardless of their identity. The playing field isn’t level in the world, and it is even more difficult in fashion.’

Other NYFW shows have featured trans models in the past, but the No Sesso collection is different as it promotes growth within the fashion industry. Models of all shapes and sizes walked the catwalk to keep with the inclusive tone of the brand.

Outfits included imaginative and colourful jackets and loose trousers and vests that were fashioned into skirts She was inspired by powerful business women and so incorporated furry suitcases, power-suits and tracksuits.

In 2018, transgender models became more prominent with the likes of Teddy Quinlivan who came out as transgender in 2016 to CNN Style and Parisian model Ines Rau who made history as the first out trans woman to appear as the Playmate centerfold in Playboy.

A Marco Marco show in 2018 was one of the major catwalk shows to feature all transgender models. One such model was Gigi Gorgeous who is a YouTube star who tweeted that she has “never been model industry standard, and I don’t want to be, I love my thickness” and thanked Marco Marco “for embracing ALL types of beauty.”

Transgender recognition was often talked about in 2018 especially when Victoria’s Secret who faced backlash after the Chief Marketing Officer, Ed Razek, suggested that transgender models did not belong on the VS runway. One trans model, Geena Rocera, responded by posting photos of herself with #transisbeautiful.

The first trans designer and all trans runways are clear evidence that the fashion industry is progressing and becoming all inclusive of all sizes and gender.

Roisin Maguire

Image Credit: Wikipedia